Taco extravaganza at Club Mexicana

Some of you might remember. There was that Notting Hill gem called Crazy Homies. Although my memory is a little blurry after many years, partially because the time we spent there was filled with pitchers of margaritas, I recollect that place as one of the most luscious spots I’ve ever been to. And I’m not just talking about Mexican flavours. It was the tunes. The carafes we wanted to bring home, the shot glasses into which mezcal was poured. The chunky guacamole that I believe only had salt, pepper, and lime and the crackly corn tortillas that keep it company. Crazy Homies just stopped existing, and so the search for bean and guacamole tacos, rice-filled salsa burritos, and melting cheese and mushroom enchiladas began.

Salsa verde, salsa madre, and chipotle salsa roja trio, accompanied by tortilla chips.

For a long time, Mexican cuisine felt like one of the few we couldn’t easily find in London. Trying a couple of joints, leaving dissatisfied, coming back home, and experimenting with new recipes became a pastime. Mango salsa and roasted cauliflower fajitas, corn salsa accompanied by Mexican fiesta rice, mezcal margaritas, and guac! The kinds of guacamole we tried to master included: red onion, spring onion, no onion, coriander, parsley, rocket, lime, lemon, citron, green, yellow, plum, San Marzano, cherry, and heirloom tomatoes. I can confidently say: the juicier the tomatoes, the worse the guac. Lime and coriander is the best combo, especially with red onions.

So, when a friend of mine told me there was an innovator throwing a California-style vegan Mexican supper club in a Hackney cafe — a three-course taco feast accompanied by Wham! records, blow-up flamingos, and LOTS of tequila — it was already too late to join because, by then, they had moved to their residency in a Homerton pub. So I did the next best thing: went to brunch at The Spread Eagle, ordered the fish tacos, and the triple-fried potatoes. Then, the supper club, now the restaurant I’m talking about, is Club Mexicana, and the innovator we shall cherish is Meriel Armitage.

‘Beef’, queso, shortcrust pastry, salsa roja, pink onions empanadas.

Since then, Club Mexicana’s permanent space opened in Soho's fave foodie community: Kingly Court, and at last, it came to Spitalfields, now a site that is unfortunately closed down but no worries they are now at Boxhall City, Liverpool Street. Although it’s almost impossible to pick a favourite, every time I go, depending on my hunger level, I order the Buffalo Mushroom and choose one or two additional tacos. Al Pastor comes with adobo-marinated shawarma, onion & coriander, salsa verde, and charred pineapple; BBQ Short ‘Rib’ features sticky glazed ‘ribs’, BBQ sauce, slaw, pink onions, pickled jalapeños, and garlic mayo. To drink? Jalapeño-infused tequila, triple sec, coriander, lime, salt — on ice, not frozen.

These days, Mexican cuisine seems to be booming, especially in southeast London. Although I have more tips about Mexican flavours in town, places for Mezcal tastings, orange-flavoured hot sauces, and Horchata drinks, Club Mexicana is the place where the myth is real: anything you can cook, I can make vegan.

Must-eat taco.

A must-have: Well, obviously tacos. Three of the same cost £13.5. I would strongly recommend going with a group of friends who are willing to experience a hot, spicy Mexican fiesta.

My favorite: Order some SALSA MADRE with tomato, lime, jalapeño, and coriander, and put it on everything.

Bonus: Every Tuesday night at our favorite vegan Mexican in Spitalfields, from 5pm— all-you-can-eat tacos for £20 per person.

Address: Soho: Kingly Court, W1B 5PW. Shoreditch: Boxhall City, EC2M 7PN,Mayfair: Mercato Metropolitano, W1K 6ZA

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