Beaten by A Whisker, Endorsed by Regulars

A sunny day. Friday, to be exact. I’m devouring an aubergine parm sandwich at the Black Cat Café, lover Clapton, before heading off to catch some sunshine at Hackney Downs Studios. My fellow vegan friend tells me about the Basque cheesecake she had at that vegan bakery. But she can’t remember the name for a split second. I start naming places: Third Culture Deli, Okja, Wave, even Arapina—which I'm not the biggest fan of.

“None of the above,” she says. “It’s in North London, Walthamstow, I think.”

“In Walthamstow?” I repeat. Flabbergasted, in utter shock for not knowing or having even heard of it. She’s more bewildered by my lack of knowledge of this incredible vegan bakery. She consults her Google Maps for saved and favourited places and tells me:

Beaten by A Whisker, sandwich preparation.

“It’s called Beaten by a Whisker, just at the exit of St James Overground—sorry, Weaver Line.” I ask, “And all vegan?” —bewildered. She nods, smiling. I double-check. Instagram confirms. Triple-check. Their website confirms.

Eight year vegan in this city, I thought I knew it all vegan, vegan-adjacent, vegan-friendly places. Apparently not. Still a lot to learn. The following week, without hesitation, I get on Windrush Lane, get out at Whitechapel, take the Elizabeth Line in the Liverpool Street direction, and change to a third form of transport toward Chingford. Within almost one hour of travel time, I’m at Beaten By A Whisker.

The all vegan bakery display with daily soup and sub choices.

The first impression. The smell. The luscious aroma of cinnamon—soon revealed to be coming from the buns. Herbaceous fragrance of focaccia. A note of roasted walnut, guessing: banana, walnut and maple bread. But the most predominant scent? Freshly baked bread occupying trays. I’m waiting behind four people. They all order mushroom and onion sausage rolls. Eight, seven, six left. I’m initially torn between the broccoli and sausage roll mini focaccia, and the spicy tomato focaccia, but with the high demand, the decision is made for me when I’m asked what I’d like. “The mushroom roll and an oat latte to stay. A plum frangipane to take away.”

But a new dilemma awaits as the roasted squash begins to suffuse the open-air kitchen and seating area. To sandwich or not to sandwich? What makes a good sub? The bread, to start with. Has to be freshly made, in my personal choice, warm and crispy. The spread, which I call the foundation. At home, it’s mostly basil hummus. At Beaten by A Whisker, according to the blackboard on the wall, today it’s soy labneh accompanied by pistachio dukkah and zhoug. Sounds like a titbit to try for. Squash as the main veg, kale for greenery.

Roasted squash, pistachio dukkah, soy labneh, kale, and zhoug sandwich. Often referred to as Middle Eastern pesto zhoug is typically made with fresh cilantro (or coriander), green chilies, garlic, olive oil, and spices like cumin, coriander, and cardamom.

Well, in that situation: of course, to sandwich. The first bite reveals it all. After the exquisite Kimchi Face-Plant at the Chatsworth Bakehouse, this is a close competitor. And the news that it changes weekly.  Can’t wait to try the upcoming novelty on the menu and for Beaten by a Whisker to open a second shop in South London. Because let’s be honest: this is the kind of beloved haunt all vegans wish for and deserve.

Mushroom & onion sausage roll in demand.

What to get:  I’ve tried four items on the menu and pretty much fell in lust with all of them. I’ll go out on a whim and say: anything. But definitely the daily sandwich, because they’ve got such a unique plant-based way of building them.

A must-try: I came for the Basque cheesecake, but it was all gone by the time I got there. A reason to come back, I believe, since I’ve heard so much about how succulent it is.

Only on the weekend: They bake tarts. This week’s, as affiché on the website, is courgette, pea, and garden herbs.

Address: Unit 3, 5a Old Brewery Way, London E17 7FJ

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