Dalston stew regeneration

I’ve been an inhabitant of London for eight years, and I can easily declare that I’ve witnessed the transformation of Dalston. At first, it was late-night hangouts we queued for, the snooker club Efes, where we bumped into well-known and upcoming artists at 3 in the morning, and, of course, Turkish dürüm and lentil soup spots that stayed open for late-night snackers. Dalston has always played a crucial role in London’s night and music scene. Before my time, in the 1960s and 1970s, it was community gathering spots like Four Aces, launched by Newton Dunbar, that contributed to the history of London’s music scene. It was pivotal in the evolution of Afro-Caribbean music including reggae, roots, soul, and R&B. Over the years, its clientele included legends such as Bob Marley, Stevie Wonder, and Jimmy Cliff. In the early 1990s, Four Aces became Club Labrynth, founded by Joe Wieczorek, a rave scene venue featuring acid house, where The Prodigy made their first live public appearance. Despite an active campaign to save the building, it was demolished in 2007 and replaced by part of the Dalston Junction Overground line project, followed by new tower-style buildings—marking yet another instance of gentrification. Unfortunately, all major cities suffer from it as areas become more populated and desirable for metropolitans.

The Veg Stew at Larzijan Uyghur Vegan Cuisine, Gillett Square, Dalston.

But for the purpose of this article, and with the belief that a multicultural Dalston still thrives, I’m going to get off at the overground—now Windrush Lane—at Dalston Junction, grab a takeaway coffee from All Press, and sit for a couple of minutes in a sliver of sunlight to soak up some vitamin D. I’ll walk in the direction of Hoxton to check if Andu Ethiopian Vegan Cafe is still around and serving two of my favorite things: steamed collard greens —Gomen, and mild split peas comfort food—Shiro. I’ll make sure The Haggerston is still active and hosting Sunday jazz sessions, then walk through De Beauvoir Rose Garden before turning towards The Scolt Head and heading in the direction of Gillett Square—with the purpose of checking out Larzijan Uyghur Vegan Cuisine.

The Uyghurs, a Turkic ethnic group, are known for a cuisine centered around ingredients like roasted mutton and beef. So, how would you veganize it? I ask the chef and owner, Zarife, in Turkish, at which point we realize we speak the same mother tongue. She begins telling her story while setting up a table for two at the entrance, just before she starts preparing the Fried Tugur Dumplings. The earliest chapter of her journey takes us to when she ran a restaurant in Topkapı, within the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality quarters. As the city and her own life path transformed, she eventually found her way to London, where she removed all animal products from the menu and created these clean, plant-based wonders we’re about to taste. We soon learn (hopefully before spring 2025) that she is going to take over a couple of tables at Vortex Jazz Club’s floors, as this shed is no longer sufficient for her future vision. I mentally note everything and tell her that I'll return later to learn more of her story. The dumplings arrive at our table, joined by the veg stew. We dig in. Hand-rolled dough wraps around the generous filling of tofu and vegetables. The veg stew harbors seasonal ingredients and aromatic spices that we sense through retro-nasal olfaction. Larzijan, thank you for once again making me believe that Dalston, despite all the urban transformation, can still generate local surprises, true to its essence.

The Dumplings at Larzijan, Dalston.

A must-have: Although I didn’t try it yet due to over-satisfaction and a full stomach, it’s made the list for next time: Goshnan / Uyghur Pie with minced tofu, onion, spring onion, green and red peppers, and spinach.

My favorite: The broth from the veg stew, especially the micro mushrooms floating on the surface.

Bonus: A chef-to-table experience and a chat with Zarife, accompanied by "wooows" and "yum!"

Address: 79b Kingsland High St, London E8 2PB

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