Every SE Londoner’s Neighborhood Nook

A couple of days ago, a friend invited me to a night out in Brixton, and by that, he meant: Let’s see a picture at The Ritzy, either The Complete Unknown or The Real Pain, and after that, we would go out for a drink or two at The Shrub and Shutter. He specifically mentioned to come hungry because he had a beloved local spot in store that I absolutely needed to try, and he was unquestionably, thoroughly, without a doubt certain that I would like it there. Me, the ever-curious mind that loves to discover new places, had only an apple around noon and was craving that anonymous treasure I was about to discover. Meet me in front of the movie theater, he texted. I got off the bus, headed toward The Ritzy. He greeted me with a big smile and declared: We are going inside. The moment he said inside, I knew we were headed to En Root.

En Root at The Ritzy, Brixton.

I didn’t tell him about my vast knowledge of this Indian fusion spot, nor my love for falafel shawarma wraps. This is my neighborhood gem, he said ecstatically. Mine as well, I thought, as the Peckham branch was literally in front of my flat, looking out the window to make sure they were open, kind of distance. No need to spoil a fellow food enthusiast who wants to take me to a plant-powered eatery where mango and apple chutneys keep company to garlic coriander naans.

My assistant, aka ChatGPT, describes a neighborhood gem as follows: A neighborhood gem refers to a local business, restaurant, café, or spot that is beloved by the people in the area but may not be widely known beyond the community. These places often have a special charm, excellent service, or unique offerings that make them stand out, even if they aren’t flashy or famous.

En Root covers all the criteria and more. Born and raised in South London, co-founders Nish and Harsh created a menu inspired by their roots in Gujarat, referred as the vegetarian state of India. They opened the first shop in 2016 in Herne Hill. The food truck joined the family in 2017 and is still in demand for events, music festivals, film productions, and private parties. In 2019, the HQ was established in Clapham, followed by the Peckham branch in 2021 and the Ritzy collaboration in 2022.

En Root, Clapham, playing Yusef Lateef, Buddy and Lou on the background on a sunny day.

I believe that even as they expand the number of shops, never leaving where they come from makes En Root a neighborhood nook like no other. I go there with my laptop or one of the latest books in hand, ordering a Masala Dosa if it’s early and I need a breakfast-type plate, or a Falafel Shawarma Kebab or En Root Platter if I’m hungry. I stay for hours, unless someone is waiting for a table, finishing all the work I couldn’t do for the last couple of days, while checking out what other Peckham neighbors are reading and ordering or overhearing conversations about the new items joining the menu soon. I go there at night for a quick bite when I have no inspiration to cook at home, or I get takeout when guests are visiting from the northern part of town. Sometimes I go there on Mondays, craving a veg samosa with mango chutney, only to remember that’s the one day they are closed. No bao or taco can satisfy my hunger.

A couple of days ago, another SE friend suggested a change of scenery: a walk in Clapham Common toward Battersea Park to check out the latest exhibition at Studio Voltaire. They suggested we grab something from Clapham Common to eat in the park. Anything you crave? they asked. Shroom Rogan Josh with rice and salad, I said. If there’s an En Root in any neighborhood, the decision is obvious.

The Falafel Shawarma Wrap with Rainbow Salad, Baba Ganesh, Shawarma Shrooms, Pickled Cabbage, Tandoori Falafel, Kachumer Rajanaise.

What to Get: I’m pretty obsessive in my choices when it comes to places I frequent often, so I would suggest a Falafel Shawarma Wrap. This is falafel like no other.

Must Try: En Root produces Raja Bonnet hot sauce. It goes with anything—not just what they make. I put it on sandwiches, potatoes, pasta, even hummus at home.

Address(es): Peckham: 28 Peckham Rye, London SE15 4JR. Clapham: 5 Ascot Parade, Clapham Park Rd, London SW4 7EY. Brixton: Brixton Oval, Coldharbour Ln, London SW2 1JG.

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